Got one of those "camlink" USB converters because I was curious about em, and WHOAH I was shocked. UVC output, 20ms delay and signal looks to be properly grabbing 1080P@30. Single chip solution under a small sink and costs under $20. What in the heck is this. pic.twitter.com/J7HYM3cf3M
Link takes a single video input as a source and sends a single video output up to 1080p 60fps to AWS Elemental MediaLive. Set up requires three connections to begin streaming video to MediaLive: a power source, an IP network, and a 3G-SDI or an HDMI video source. Link also supports Power over Ethernet (PoE) so you can use as few as two cables.
We’ve moved from USB micro-B to USB-C for our power connector. This supports an extra 500mA of current, ensuring we have a full 1.2A for downstream USB devices, even under heavy CPU load.
另外一個是 HDMI 接頭換成 D Type:
To accommodate dual display output within the existing board footprint, we’ve replaced the type-A (full-size) HDMI connector with a pair of type-D (micro) HDMI connectors.
這兩個改變都需要準備額外的設備或是線材,其他的改變應該還好...
這次改版最明顯的是效能的增加,官方宣稱 CPU 速度是前一代的三倍:
A 1.5GHz quad-core 64-bit ARM Cortex-A72 CPU (~3× performance)
Ran into this same underscan problem with black borders showing up on my new Dell 24-inch Ultrasharp U2415 connected to a 2013 Macbook Air running High Sierra, and after hours of looking into the problem the fix turned out to be super simple:
Just restart in Safe Mode.
That’s it. Restart your Mac in Safe Mode (restart, hold down the Shift key after the Apple BONG sounds, then restart normally once again for good measure. I don’t know what this clears or resets but it worked for me. No more letterboxing or black borders with the native 1920×1200 resolution selected.
So maybe something to try first for anyone coming across this post.
Lately I have had the need to do real time video capture from HDMI devices as of late for a project, and while looking around the internet found that all of the capture cards that are aimed at gamers (windows / OSX support only) or full blown production capture (Very expensive, more inputs than I need). The other downside is that all of these options either have no Linux drivers at all, or if they do, they have a Linux driver that is behind an NDA, and those cards are in the $800+ range.